Los Angeles Apparel- from controversy to rebirth

In Los Angeles, Los Angeles Apparel, the brand founded by Dov Charney, has chosen to advertise on the famous billboards- not those on Sunset Boulevard where all the luxury brands are displayed, but those in the city’s working-class neighbourhoods, where silhouettes of women in swimsuits are shown in highly suggestive poses.

Nine years after its founding, the brand which operates factories in the southern part of downtown Los Angeles, along with a factory store open to the public- has even opened a store in Soho, New York at 480 Broadway. A year after signing a one-year lease with owner KPG Funds, the brand sealed the deal last March by signing a ten-year lease. The space, formerly occupied by Topshop, now spans two floors and covers a total area of 25,000 square feet.

This marks a comeback of sorts for Charney, the former founder of American Apparel, who- after facing multiple allegations of sexual harassment, inappropriate behaviour in the workplace, and abusive management- was forced to leave the company in 2014, leading to its bankruptcy in 2015.

While Charney has always denied the most serious allegations and was not found legally liable in the various cases in which he was involved- many of which were settled out of court or referred to arbitration- the controversy has left a lasting mark on his image and that of his companies.

Convinced of American Apparel’s winning formula, Charney relaunched his brand incognito in 2016 with Los Angeles Apparel, applying the same principles: basics, local and integrated manufacturing in Los Angeles, relatively affordable prices, no logos, and a highly recognisable aesthetic. In fact, a large portion of his machinery came from the former American Apparel factory.

With its momentum halted by COVID, the brand then faced a new controversy when Charvey began manufacturing masks and medical gowns at its factories. Accused of ignoring lockdown measures, he was forced to shut down his factories in July 2020, “following the infection of more than 300 employees and the deaths of four workers,” according to The New York Times.

In 2023, Charney also launched a collaboration with Kanye West and became CEO of the Yeezy brand after it had fallen from grace and following the end of its partnership with Adidas. Charney notably produced the Yeezy clothing line at Los Angeles Apparel’s factories.

These events did not hinder the growth of his new brand, which is estimated to generate tens of millions of dollars in annual revenue- likely between $50 million and $100 million, according to available estimates.

In addition to championing “Made in Los Angeles”- with pieces cut, sewn, knitted, and dyed locally in Los Angeles- the brand has attracted a following convinced of the quality of its products, which, unlike fast fashion, rely on thick, durable fabrics. The collection’s signature fabric, ultra-heavy cotton, is featured in heavyweight, structured T-shirts and hoodies.

Another standout piece, the leotard, draws direct inspiration from the American Apparel aesthetic and is available in a wide range of materials, from cotton to nylon. Inspired by ’90s fashion, baby tees- short, cropped tops- are one of the brand’s best sellers today. Still very popular, the $60 swimsuit features the high-cut styles and vibrant colours that made the brand a hit in 2010.

In terms of pricing, the brand has chosen to position itself in the upper mid-range, justified by California’s labour costs. Its advertising campaigns, both in-city and on social media, favour an amateur look with photos taken using direct flash and models recruited directly from the street. Finally, just like the old American Apparel, the imagery constantly flirts with a suggestive aesthetic from the ’70s and ’80s, which continues to resonate with the public.

Originally from Montreal, Canada, Charney has been based in Los Angeles for 30 years now. While his initial ambition was to produce basics, his partnership with entrepreneurs Sam Lim and Sang Ho Lim marked the brand’s growth and its move into the historic Alameda Square complex in Downtown Los Angeles, which has since become the Row DTLA shopping complex.

It was there that the company truly scaled up. In this massive production centre, it began manufacturing its clothing in-house rather than outsourcing production overseas- a nearly radical stance at a time when the entire apparel industry was turning to Asia. American Apparel began as a B2B company, selling T-shirts to screen printers, uniform manufacturers, and other brands. These logo-free garments became the raw material for an entire creative scene.

In 2003, Charney realised that the product could become a brand in its own right, and opened his first stores in Los Angeles, Montreal, and New York. At the height of its expansion, in 2009–2010, American Apparel had up to 260 stores worldwide, in some 20 countries, and exceeded $600 million in annual revenue.